Todd.
State of Michigan. United States of America.

Ruins of Stalingrad.
Since I was a young child I have had an interest in the First and Second World
Wars. My grandfathers, uncles and even aunts participated heavily in both of
those conflicts. Because most of the photos and films that I saw pertaining to
those events were not in color, to me, with the exception of the United States,
the world was black and white. It was not until I made my first trip to Poland
that I realized how wrong I was. As for Russia, never in a million years could I
have imagined stepping foot on their soil.
My interest has evolved in to a way of life. After visiting these sacred
battlefields around the world, I feel the need to emphasize how important it is
that we learn from these terrible moments in history in order to not repeat
them. Even more importantly I have learned how the common person around the
world holds within themselves the same peaceful values as I do.
Stalingrad has been on my ‘dream list’ of places to visit for decades. It is one
of the biggest battlefields in the world. For many, when they hear the words
Second World War, Stalingrad is one of the first things that enters into their
minds. When I tell people of my travels to tour these battlefields of the war,
normally the first question asked is, “have you been to Stalingrad?” So for me
Stalingrad became a mission for me to fulfill a dream; to find an untouched
symbol of the Second World War, the German Stahlhelm!
For many people vacations, trips and holidays have obstacles and disappointments
to overcome. Even I experience that on the journey’s I make. Little did I know
that when I landed on a hot sunny and dusty afternoon at Gumrak, these next two
weeks were to be the exception. With a friendly greeting and cold beer, things
started off just fine.
With my main mission already in motion, I also had to learn as much as possible
about this battle. There was no other way to do that than try to bring to life
the black and white words and photos history has documented. Standing on the
grounds and visualizing in my own mind how moments of this event existed were to
give me the greatest comprehensive teaching one could wish for.
Immediately from Gumrak airfield we drove and passed through historical ground.
After parking the car we walked ‘down hill’ towards the River Volga, the same
direction as the German landser. The first point of interest was the loud and
smokey Red Oktober (revolution) Factory. WOW! Stalingrad history in front of my
eyes. Then it was to the near-by Volga before heading “uphill”, away from the
river which was the direction the Red Army soldier pushed the invader back.
The next morning was to be my first full day in Stalingrad. My very educated and
even more so, patient tour guide, and friend, showed me powerful places like the
Grain Elevator, Tsaritsa River Gorge, Nail Factory, Univermag including its
basement where Paulus located himself, and finally before days end, the River
Volga. Throughout my time in Stalingrad I saw the Barrikady, Tractor Factory,
Pavlov’s House, Mamaev Hill, Mareneovka, Sovietski, Kalatch, Rynok, River Don
and many more interesting places. It was the simple facts that stuck out which
you normally wouldn’t think about when reading books that made this experience
so genuine. For example, when looking at the Flour Mill, most of the damage done
to the building is on the west side. Looking at the east side of the building is
a complete contrast. The east side of the building looks like a typical Detroit
vacant warehouse while the west side looks like something one would visualize
when they hear the word Stalingrad.
All of these sites mentioned plus many more not mentioned were to appease my
appetite for the ‘things to see and do list’. But the best was still to come.
One of the places that is dear to my heart now is Rossoschka. It is there that I
learned and saw with my own eyes how bad things must have become during that
battle. The German and Russian memorial and cemeteries are divided by the road.
The number of names listed from both sides are more than one could perceive. The
ages of the soldiers who gave the ultimate sacrifice for their country is
something that is utmost respectable. This is only one place were the soldiers
are laid to rest. It almost becomes an illusion when you stop and think about
all the others that are buried elsewhere or are still missing somewhere below
Stalingrad soil. By the end of this battle the human race suffered a major
damage to the existence of life.
Some distance behind the Russian memorial at Rossoschka I took advantage of the
chance to explore more in-depth how a soldier lived and struggled to stay alive.
After digging in an area where a possible trench or bunker had once existed I
came to realize what life must have become for these fighting individuals.
Strewn everywhere were the remains of what the rations had reduced themselves
to. Horse bones lay everywhere and interfered with everything. Old opened cans
of food and sardines dotted the depths of the field. Some of these areas may
have been trash pits or some may have been the last supper for some. China tea
pots, bottles, cups and many other common day utensils were found everywhere. In
order to find what I had originally set out to accomplish in this trip, I had to
stay determined and hope for the best. As time moved on I would have settled for
even part of a helmet.
This was my third time in Russia. I have always wanted to be the first to touch
a German helmet with human hands for the first time since it had been swallowed
up by Mother Nature. I’ve had the privilege to watch a helmet get dug up by
another friend, but it’s not the same. I wanted to dig one up for myself. Well
good things come to those who least expect it. After a typical field lunch one
afternoon my “dream” came true. After working in the same area that we had been
for sometime we made “contact” Like a ray of sunlight cutting its way through a
cloudy sky the shape of this object was as clear and obvious as one could only
wish for. After carefully digging around the first snow camouflaged helmet with
the spade it was soon obvious that we were dealing with “twins.” There was
another helmet settled just below the first. This one had a camouflage band and
some battle damage which made it that much more unique. My trophies!!! The words
given to the helmets from a highly respectable individual. I am still unable to
use words to describe the energized adrenaline that rushed through my body. But
in retrospect these helmets represented life. A life that I cannot imagine.
From that moment on, things continued to get better. The people I met were
awesome, our homemade meals satisfying. The beer was cold and the “contact” was
abundant. Our final day in the fields became one of the more interesting.
Uncovered were, officer boots, gasmask canisters, plane parts, uniform parts,
belt buckle with belt, y-straps, more everyday field gear and personal items.
And also included in the list of finds was an amazing third helmet. WOW!!!!
So then came the time to say good bye to a place that has now become a part of
my life. If I had to do it all over again, I would not change a thing. If I were
to recommend a trip like this to someone, I would highly do so, but with the
pure fact that they need to know that it is going to be hard to top what I was
able to accomplish in the short time I was there. I am indebted to a few hard
working and great people and always will be. The only reason I was able to do
what I did was because of the main individual who introduced me to other great
people. The combination of all these great people worked together to help me
accomplish what was a “dream come true!”
1. I did not fly to Stalingrad, I drove from California! There is proof if you can look at the license plate on the vehicle.
Four Mill
Four Mill
Rossoschka
4."Contact!"
5. "Twins!"
3.A well preserved tea pot
14.When the roads don't work you need to improvise!
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